Hack the Island

So here I am posting twice within two weeks, outrageous I know, but I made a promise/statement and I keep to them.

As per the last post, this one is going to be about hacking the FORHOJA (fhqwhgads). At first glance it isn't too much of a looker, and I really wanted to put my liqour in it, so I took a look at a possibility (John Booze Maleficent Karting), and figured why not?

Here is what the Island looked like in my cozy little kitchen before the hack.


Not terrible, and honestly I was considering not changing the island. However after a week of pouring drinks, it was getting REALLY old having to tilt the vodka in and out to refill the goblet. So I was back in full force today to resolve this horrific problem.

First step is to pick up a set of 1-1/2" x 3/4" L-brackets at your local hardware store, I found mine at Lowes. These are going to be used to ensure that the sides of the island will not separate from the center portion. If you are already going to IKEA to pick up the FORHOJA, or have one decently close, also pick up a KVARTAL Miter box and saw. If you already have a hacksaw and miter box you will not "need" this, but it comes in surprisingly handy as you'll see later. Plus it is only $4.50, so why not?


==It came with screws, and they will work if you are slow when you tighten them in place.

(If you have yet to assemble your island then you can skip this step) If you already have the island assembled you need to take off the side of the island that you WANT TO HAVE THE DRAWER ON in my case I wanted it to be the wheel side as it is closest to the range. In all honesty it does not matter which side that you choose to remove, but if you do it that way you only have to remove one side.


Next, take the uppermost portion of the island (where the shelve pockets are), and screw the L-brackets to the underside. Be aware that you should go slow when tightening the screws down. The core is very soft so you shouldn't have any problems or cracking, but it is still a good idea to take it slow. When in doubt, after a good turn back out the screw a smidge and then tighten in farther. While you are tightening down the screws be sure that the joint between the middle support and the side supports are tight, this way there will not be a gap between then when the time comes to put it together. This step can be done before step one if it is already assembled, and it might be easier to keep the gap between them tighter this way, albeit a bit more awkward to do so.


Now that you have that together, bring out your KVARTAL hack saw and miter box and place it against one side of the center support.


The reason why it was semi-important to get this $4.50 hacksaw and miter box is that is magically places hacksaw in line with the cross brace! Ridiculous. Couldn't have been better planned out, and I was even surprised at this one. Heck I only picked it up because I was not sure if I had one in the garage.

So make your cuts to both sides of the top portion, and then look at the soft wood beneath the veneer.


It would be a good time now to lightly sand the corners and clean up the cut.

Now follow the directions in the manual to assemble the cart, or if you already had it assembled be sure to put this top area in place before you put the actual top back in place.


The hack is now complete, and I have an easy to access place for my wonderful beverages.



One thing I am now on the lookout for is a couple surface mount bars that will be used to hold dish towels to cover up the tops of the bottles and to add a bit more color to the kitchen. Also if you are wondering why the mirror is so high it is because I am 6'7" and I HATE mirrors that I have to duck down to use.

-'til next time


Ikea hacking at the Pine table

I moved and some other stuff happened, so I am going to keep this short and sweet.

the color wall now has a new home...
#color #colorwall #version2 #hiddenoctopus #crazyoctopus

And because I apparently cant use anything the way that the original designer wanted me to, I hacked some IKEA furniture





Also I found out that my dad and I looked very similar while he and I were in college.


Next up I am going to turn the fhqwhgads

Forhoja Kitchen Cart

Into something like this

Boos Magnifico Kitchen Cucica

'til next time

PS Don't worry the 240z is running, it just has a hole in the gas tank so... I don't drive it because explosions are bad.


Formula 1 day 1 2013

Photos are up!! Totally unedited so please don't hate on the non-color correction, after all it is an F1 weekend and I do not want to sit in front of a screen this year.



Formula 1: Austin TEHAS

Hello, Hello, Hello!

Once again I'll be in Austin this year jumping out of my seat and yelling at the automobiles screaming down the track for the race this year. If you are local, or a temporary local from abroad, shoot me a message!

Also I'll be posting photos from the race at day's end again so be sure to check www.flickr.com/crazyoctopus for updates and shots from turn 15!

'til next time


I drove it home!


I have been having too much fun fiddling with the car to post anything about it, but hey... better fiddling with the Z than just fiddling with my thumbs...

Last Friday Martin and I made our way down to Yoshifab to pick up the car, and bring her home.

Her first meal with her new heart & brain implant (american lard of 91 octane)

First Meal

Her first real drive on the street

(applers click here)

Look at her pretty tuckus...

Home again, home again

After some adjustment of parts and tightening of some bolts 'n bolts, I was able to get her to idle at a decent RPM.

(I really need to figure out how to integrate flickr to work with iPhones...)

This however was a small victory, there was another issue with the, I think, IAC and it is causing her to have a higher than normal idle when warm. It is either that or I need to adjust the TPS, or there is a slight vacuum leak, or maybe my dizzy... I really have no idea at this point. For now I am idling at 1100RPM and I would like it to be 750-900.

Hopefully Josh will have an answer when I stop by on Friday to patch up an exhaust leak, if not then I'll deal with it after I solve the short that I have in the running lights circuit.

'till next time.

ps. I also strapped on the front lip (FINALLY) and man oh man SEX FACE MCGEE


World First Volvo powered 240z*

*Google massive keyword attack and search, but if you can prove me wrong PLEASE let me know.

Well kidos, it has been two years since I threw sheets to the wind and decided that it would be a good idea to try to put a motor in a car that hadn't been done before. Sure there was quite a bit of frustration, hiccups, vodka, racked knuckles, & dust collecting, but there has not been a single project that I have ever been involved in that put this large of a smile of my face. HONESTY STRIKEOUT, I teared up on the drive back home from the shake down drive yesterday.

So without further ado here is the first drive of my 1972 Datsun 240z powered by a volvo b230 8v block with a 16v head, bolted to a Ford T5 transmission, snailed by a 19t turbo.


[The hesitation that you hear from the engine was due to both the ECU learning as well as running too little fuel and having the engine stave. It smoothed out shortly after 5 gallons of fuel was put in]



::side note... doughnuts are now known as doritos::


Next post will be of, hopefully, some in car videos of the drive home.

Please take note of the hilariously long shifter lever in the "first pass" video. The T-5 transmission sits much farther forward than the stock F4W 4-speed, so until I design and build a shifter relocation mechanism I will be sticking to a tube, welded to a plate, bolted to the tranny. I will say that I totally dig the boro dildo shift knob. I mean really, it is far too smile inducing for me to replace it soon.


This morning I drove back to Yoshifab to make sure that the chassis wiring that I did two years ago still works. This way when I drive it home I will have working brake lights. The first step was to figure out which switches I actually need. Fantastically the team at yoshifab cut down the amount of switches that I need by nearly half: eFan is now controlled via a temp switch (volvo stock part), fuel pumps & IGN are kicked on with the kill key (instead of two switches).

When all was said and done I was left with only 3 switches: running/dash lights, high/low beam, & reverse lights. There was a hiccup with the brake lights, but after some troubleshooting I found out that the brake switch itself was sticking so I stole some lube and now it works fantastically. I had to leave before I tied up all the loose ends - Dad's B-day - but all that is left is to run a power wire from the fuse block to the battery, and tie the brake switch to the power side of the starter switch.

Car life is so rad when you have help from Josh and his amazing team at YoshiFab.

-'til next time